Zendaya’s Earrings Spark Debate Over Ancient Artifacts’ Ownership

The Controversy Surrounding Zendaya's Earrings

Actor Zendaya, starring in the film Odyssey, recently sparked a debate about the ownership and provenance of ancient Iranian artifacts when she wore earrings made from pieces attributed to the Ziwiye hoard at a London photocall. According to Barron London, a Mayfair-based gallery that owns the jewelry, these gold medallion plaques date back to the 1st millennium BC. The controversy has raised questions about how modern celebrities can draw attention to ancient artifacts and the ethical considerations surrounding their ownership.

Academic Concerns and Calls for Transparency

Romina Frohar, founder of the Forensic Archive of Iran, launched a petition demanding that Barron London reveal the complete known provenance of these gold plaques, conduct due diligence checks on their legal status, and allow independent examination. Dr. Christos Tsirogiannis, an antiquities expert at the Swiss Federal Office of Culture, expressed his surprise at the lack of objections from those accompanying Zendaya.

Frohar emphasized that cultural appreciation cannot substitute for provenance transparency. She stated, 'Barron London has described the loan as a celebration of ancient Persian artistry, but cultural appreciation cannot substitute for provenance transparency.' Frohar is also concerned about the ethical implications of private ownership and conservation of such artifacts.

The Jewelry Trade: A Shadowy Industry

The jewelry industry dealing in ancient artifacts is often shrouded in mystery. Many pieces available for purchase through Mayfair dealers and auction houses can trace their origins back to significant periods, such as the 664BC-332BC Egyptian mummy mask or Hellenistic gold earrings from the 3rd century BC. Prices start at about £450.

Barron London's jewelry items are just a fraction of what is available in the market. For instance, an online gallery offers a bronze dress pin with an end resembling an ibex that could be up to 3,000 years old and a 2,100-year-old Egyptian mummy mask made of beads. These items can evoke significant historical periods.

Legal and Ethical Considerations

The legalities of establishing ownership can be complex, with many countries now claiming that discovered ancient objects belong to the state. However, laws are not always retroactive, leading to ongoing debates over ownership and ethical implications. For example, the Koh-i-Noor diamond was surrendered by Duleep Singh as part of a treaty in 1849.

Academics like Dr. Tsirogiannis have highlighted that about 90% of antiquities in the market one way or another, sooner or later, are proved to be illicit or lacking provenance, lacking documentation. This raises questions about the legitimacy of items being sold and worn by celebrities.

The Broader Implications

While the legalities of Zendaya’s earrings may never be fully resolved, it highlights the broader issue of how modern celebrities can draw attention to ancient artifacts. For instance, when Kim Kardashian wore a gold dress next to an Egyptian coffin at the Met Gala in 2018, experts noted the potential for increased scrutiny and discussion about provenance.

Zendaya's earring controversy underscores the complex interplay between modern celebrity culture, historical artifacts, and ethical considerations. While the jewelry may have added a touch of stardust to ancient treasures, it also sparked important discussions on ownership, authenticity, and the sale of cultural heritage items. The film star’s jewelry put the spotlight on Iran while promoting a film that had nothing to do with ancient Persia.

Source: The Guardian