- The once-thriving wool industry in New Zealand is experiencing a resurgence after decades of decline.
- Global demand for natural fibres, particularly due to rising synthetic fabric costs, has driven the recent growth.
- Major brands such as Chanel and Patagonia are seeking out New Zealand’s high-quality wool.
- Optimism remains among farmers, but market volatility still poses a challenge.
Decline of Wool Industry
The sheep farming and wool production in New Zealand have been central to the country's agricultural sector for nearly a century. In the 1960s, John Hargreaves’ family farm had around 3,000 ewes but over time, as wool prices fell and shearing costs increased, their flock dwindled.
Despite the decline in sheep numbers, with fewer than 23 million now compared to a peak of more than 70 million in the 1980s, the wool industry is showing signs of revival. The rise of synthetic fabrics and economic policies of the 1980s led to a significant drop in wool prices and production. However, recent events have shifted this trajectory.

According to Dave Burridge, national wool auction manager for PGG Wrightson, rising oil prices due to conflicts in the Middle East are driving up demand for natural fibres. Major global brands like Chanel, Patagonia, and Kalida Hali are now seeking out New Zealand’s premium wool.
In April 2023, French luxury brand Chanel signed an investment deal with Central Otago’s Lammermoor Station to support the production of premium wool. This follows visits by American outdoor clothing giant Patagonia and Turkish carpet manufacturer Kalida Hali in June and May, respectively.
Market Prices and Future Prospects
The latest national auction held at PGG Wrightson fetched prices that were the highest in 15 years. Crossbred fleeces ranged from NZ$6.47 to NZ$6.80 per kilogram, with top-quality wool reaching nearly $8 a kilogram.
While there is optimism about the industry's future, volatility remains an issue. The July auction saw prices dip slightly due to buyers stepping back after earlier commitments. However, overall prices are up by NZ$2 compared to last year, and Burridge expresses confidence in the long-term prospects for wool.
Government and Industry Reactions
Federated Farmers’ wool and meat manager Richard Dawkins is cautiously optimistic about the industry's future. He notes that strong wool prices have provided a boost to farmers, especially considering the increasing global awareness of sustainability and the unique attributes of wool.
Dawkins also highlights the importance of re-embracing wool within New Zealand culture. The country once thrived on sheep farming and wool production, but this story has been largely lost over the decades. As India becomes a more significant market for New Zealand’s wool due to recent trade agreements, Dawkins emphasizes that both international and local support are crucial for the industry's long-term success.
The revival of New Zealand’s wool industry is not just about market forces; it also represents a cultural reconnection. As Dawkins suggests, embracing this traditional product could bring much-needed stability to an industry that has faced challenges but now shows signs of recovery.
Source: The Guardian





